![]() In our case we decided on the 23 circuit since we won’t be installing power windows. The Pro Series has it’s own options as well such as how many circuits, where the key is, and how the wires pass thru the firewall. With the Pro-Series harness we were able to split the wires up inside the car by the rear seat to their respective sides. For example the original wiring had a harness running to the passenger tail light then outside under the bumper over to the drivers side tail light. When we used a OEM replacement harness in the past sometimes we would have to extend wires to move them out of site or shorten them up in other instances. This allows us to run wires and tuck them away how we see fit and make sure they are exactly the right length. At first this was somewhat of a negative for us, but in reality we realized it’s a positive thing. With the Painless Performance harness’s, the wires are left long and un-terminated. Based off your concerns, this is a great compromise that offers some features that are nice about an original harness, combined with the benefits of a universal harness,” continued Erichsen. “I would suggest our new Pro-Series harness. “We have a ton of different wiring options for your Wagon,” stated Painless Performance’s Andrew Erichsen. Talking with Painless we realized that what we actually wanted was something in between a universal harness and a direct-fit harness. They have some Chevelle harness’s, but none for a ’66 Chevelle Wagon. They do have direct-fit harness’s for a lot of the popular applications but we wanted something better for this wagon. Painless Performance has a plethora of options for us to choose from. For starters we didn’t have them and two they would most likely be toast. We started looking at universal harness’s with updated circuitry, but we’ve heard stories where there’s no connectors on the wires and you have to reuse the old connectors. What we were left with was basically a skeleton of the original wiring – what was the point of that again? On top of that if we were stuck on the side of the road and didn’t have a factory wiring diagram laying around, what good did it do us? ![]() While still a good option we realized we had to hack it up quite a bit between the LS engine, air conditioning, aftermarket gauges, stereo and fans. This allowed us to have factory colored wires that we could somewhat easily identify with a factory wiring harness diagram. In the past in order to keep things easy we used factory replacement wiring. With a blank slate in mind, we called up and chatted with Painless Performance to see what options we had. When we bought the body, it was a body only with almost zero wiring in it. On our Project WayGone build, we knew that it was going to need wiring. There’s nothing worse than a tail light that just won’t work or being stuck on the side of the road because the coil isn’t getting power. Wiring is something we can do but have to scratch our heads and think about what’s going on. Most people can build an engine blind folded but struggle with wiring – us included. If you have an issue it can be a real nightmare to track down as well. Often tedious and never seen, it’s not a fun job.
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